Anti-ageing Skin Care, Broadway, Sydney

This page presents an overview of key proven strategies for maintaining healthy skin.

Patients commonly ask us what they can do to  have healthier-looking skin. Though constantly inundated with a confusing array of  cosmetic  creams, lotions, and serums that promise to "turn back the clock," savvy 21^st century consumers seek professional help in sorting through the hype and marketing to access no-nonsense products that really work.   

Skin care basics are simple:

• Protect (sunscreen)
• Repair (cosmeceuticals)
• Support (internally and externally)

Prevention is better than cure!  Protecting your skin from the sun is the essential foundation of any effective antiaging routine.  Quite simply,  the more effectively and consistently you protect your skin from the sun, the more attractive and healthy your skin will stay.  Lifelong exposure to the sun accelerates the skin’s intrinsic aging process and leads to wrinkles, abnormal pigmentation. laxity, roughness, sallowness and broken capillaries. Severe photo-damage may cause sun spots and malignancies.

Since  most sun damage occurs before the age of 18, don't forget to protect your children as well as yourself.       Read More >>

• Repair: Cosmeceuticals
  
  

  The skin showing the different
  expressions of aging that
  manifest in each of its layers

  click on image to enlarge

  What does "Cosmeceutical" mean?

  Cosmeceutical is a conflation of the words "cosmetic" and "pharmaceutical." It was coined by the renowned American dermatologist, Albert Kligman, in 1980 to describe the marriage of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. It describes those products that exist somewhere along the spectrum between drugs and cosmetics.

  The essential difference between these two groups is that a cosmetic does not effect the structure and function of the skin while a drug does. Drugs are closely regulated for efficacy and quality by the TGA in Australia and the FDA in the USA, and can only be supplied on prescription.

  Cosmeceuticals on the other hand require no regulation and can be sold over the counter. This commonly causes confusion since the term is regularly used by some cosmetic companies to imply that their product has been “approved.”

  "Cosmeceutical" implies a degree of pharmacological action, not only at the most superficial level of the stratum corneum, but also more deeply at the level of the epidermis and dermis.             We recommend Ultraceuticals skin care products >> Read More

  What Makes an Effective Cosmeceutical?

  Effective cosmeceuticals contain high levels of active ingredients with proven effects on the skin. Such ingredients include retinols, alpha hydroxyl acids, antioxidants, phytochemicals and enzymes.

  However, not all cosmeceuticals are created equal. In order for these active ingredients to be effective in improving the skin`s condition they must be supplied both in a stable formulation and in sufficient concentrations. For example, ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is not considered to be very effective in concentrations less than 10 percent. It is also highly unstable in air and, on its own, can’t penetrate the skin. Unstablised Vitamin C products, for example, may change colour after opening and quickly lose their potency. To be effective vitamin C must therefore not only be stabilized and available at sufficient concentrations, but must also be compounded with a transport mechanism that effectively delivers it deeply into the skin.

  Keep in mind that packaging can make or break the potency of antioxidants like Vitamin C and the retinoids. Because any exposure to air causes oxidation, unstablised products packaged in jars or translucent tubes will deteriorate.

  Retinoids
  
  

  click on image to enlarge

  For more than 20 years, topical prescription retinoids (Vitamin A) have been recognized for their efficacy in reversing the signs of photo-aging. When applied to the skin, Vitamin A causes skin cells to grow and die more rapidly, thereby increasing cell turnover and rejuvenating the skin. This is best accomplished by a synthetic drug form of vitamin A, which is only available by prescription. Less potent cosmeceutical forms are available over the counter and include retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, and retinyl propionate.

  Australian law forbids the naming of prescription medications in a public forum. This information can be conveyed in a private email, so if you are interested in brand names, please Contact Us

  Retinoids are proven to improve signs of photo-aging. (See photos  which show the beneficial effects on the skin of using prescription retinoids for three months, Albert Kligman, JAMA, Jan 22-29, 1988, Vol 259, no 4) They reduce fine wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation, and roughness within 2 weeks after initiation of treatment. These effects can be sustained with continued use. Histologically, long-term treatment (mean duration, 2.3 years) has been shown to reduce the occurrence of abnormal cells and to thicken the collagen band in the papillary dermis.

  Prescription retinoids are not recommended during pregnancy and lactation and should be discontinued in women who are pregnant or are trying to conceive. Over the counter cosmeceutical formulations may be used throughout pregnancy and breastfeeding.

  Both prescription and over-the-counter vitamin A can cause skin irritation, dryness, and peeling, so it is important to follow the directions for use supplied with these products carefully. Flaking, redness and stinging may occur when treatment is first initiated but are usually transient if the product is applied as directed. Irritation can be ameliorated by short contact or alternate-day application and by avoiding abrasive cleansers.

  Hydroxy Acids

  Hydroxy acids dissolve the glue that binds old or dead cells to our skin’s surface. As we age the body’s natural exfoliation process slows and retained dead skin cells make the skin appear increasingly dull, rough and sallow. Increasing skin exfoliation makes aging skin appear smoother and feel softer. At the same time, the acids act as skin moisturizers, and they stimulate the proliferation of new, living cells in the basal cell layer. The net result, after several months of regular use of such exfoliants, is a reduction in fine lines in the skin and an overall improvement in skin tone and texture: the skin looks smoother and more youthful.[1].[2],[3],[4],[5]

  Hydroxy acids can be added to daily-use moisturizers or can be incorporated into solutions used in dermatologists' offices, such as chemical peels.

  Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA's)

  This type of acid can be found in fruits, plants and milk. Commonly used AHA’s include lactic acid (from milk) and glycolic acid (from sugar cane). Scientific research confirms that alpha hydroxy acids work effectively at reducing the signs of aging by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Higher concentrations of AHA’s are used in acid/chemical peeling.

  Products that include AHAs work to brighten dull complexions and fade the signs of aging, while promoting a more radiant look and tone. <span style="> Sensitive skin types might find these products too intense and they may cause redness or irritation. Always follow your practitioner’s recommendations carefully.

  If you can tolerate AHA's, they are the best option for sloughing off the dead dull surface skin cells that accumulate as cell turnover slows with age. AHA's are water-soluble and do not penetrate the skin’s surface barrier.

  Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

  BHA's work in very much the same way as AHAs, but with slightly different exfoliating properties. Unlike AHAs, BHAs come from synthetic sources such as salicylic acid, benzoic acid and buteric acid. BHAs have been widely used for decades in skin care products that target large pores, blackheads, blemishes and acne prone skin.

  If you have oily skin or cannot tolerate AHA's, the BHA salicylic acid may be better for you. Salicylic acid is oil-based and does not work on the surface, but rather penetrates oil-clogged pores and breaks down the dead skin cells found there so they can slough off.

  Antioxidants

  What are Antioxidants?

  Some of the most researched and well-known antioxidants are ingredients like Vitamins A, C, and E; flavinoids; beta carotene; glutathione; selenium; and zinc. Antioxidants serve a very specific purpose: to lessen the damage caused by free radicals. Each time your skin or body reacts to a perceived trauma (basically stress or increased oxygen intake), free radicals are produced. Cigarette smoking, sunlight, pollution and foods high in bad fats and sugar all lead to increased levels of free radicals.

  Why are Free Radicals Bad?

  All extrinsic skin aging can be attributed to oxidation and free radical damage. Free radicals cause the breakdown of the skin’s structure, leading to wrinkles, rough skin, dehydration and an eventual loss of elasticity, resilience. The antioxidants found in food (fruits and vegetables), supplements and topical treatments work together to mitigate the damage caused by free radicals.

  Tried and True Antioxidants: Vitamins A, C, E

  The efficacy of these antioxidants in skin rejuvenation is now backed by considerable research. Increasingly sophisticated delivery systems and formulations make these antioxidants especially potent and stable.

  Vitamin C

  • Potent antioxidant, noted for protecting skin cells from sun damage.
  • Low risk of skin irritation at concentrations of 10 percent or lower.
  • Strengthens skin’s barrier and minimizes water loss.
  • Encourages collagen production, thereby thickening the skin’s dermal layer.
  • Reduces inflammation.
  • Lightens hyperpigmentation.

  Vitamin E

  • Protects the skin from UVA damage.
  • Increases sunscreen’s efficacy, especially when combined with other antioxidants.
  • Works synergistically with Vitamin C.
  • Lessens the impact of free radicals from stress
  • Protects the skin’s lipid balance.
  • Helps reduce the intensity of a sunburn.
  • Lubricates the skin with natural emollients.

  Vitamin A

  • Promotes collagen production.
  • Reverses certain types of sun damage.
  • Increases the thickness of the dermis.
  Other ingredients sometimes used for Cosmeceuticals

  ALA (Alpha Lipoic Acid):

  Studies show that when taken a supplement, ALA has many potential health benefits. As a skincare ingredient, it may diminish the appearance of wrinkles and help firm the skin. ALA may also help with puffiness and under-eye bags. However, it is highly unstable and difficult to formulate as a skin care product.

  Idebenone:

  This antioxidant has been used to treat a rare heart muscle disease for some years. Recently it has been touted by scientists with a financial interest in it as one of the most potent antioxidants available but the relevance of this is uncertain as the testing was questionable and in living beings antioxidants act in concert with other antioxidants. Idebenone is structurally similar to CoQ10 but is not found in nature. Some independent published research has alluded to possible toxicity. [6][7][8]

  GABA (Gama Amino Butyric Acid):

  When added to treatment creams, this amino acid is supposed to simulate a muscle relaxant-like effect. There is no scientific data to support a wrinkle relaxing effect in humans.

  Kinetin

  is a naturally occurring plant growth hormone proven to slow the aging process in plant cells. When used in skincare products, Kinetin may help improve skin texture, lighten hyperpigmentation and even-out blotchy skin but to a lesser degree than Retinoids. Kinetin is considered a gentler alternative to Retinoids.

  Olive Oil

  and human skin both contain squalane, an ingredient that oxygenates and nourishes cells. Therefore, olive oil-based products may give your skin a nutrient boost. Olive oil is also packed with vitamins and free radical killing antioxidants. The Japanese and Italians have used pure olive oil as a beauty booster for centuries.

  Polyphenols and Anti-inflammatories

  These ingredients may help reduce inflammation. Inflammation is a sign that the body is attempting to protect itself from trauma. Over time, this protection backfires, creating an excessive amount of free radicals and leading to water loss in the skin cells. Antioxidants such as these that double as topical anti-inflammatories may help reverse this process. Examples of skin inflammation include: allergic reactions, acne, flushing, hives, and the symptoms associated with disorders like rosacea and psoriasis.

  Polyphenols

  Sources of polyphenols include green tea, white tea, grape seed extract, olive oil, dark chocolate, and pomegranates. Here’s how they work:

  Grape seed extract: Free radical scavengers that strengthen and repair damaged cells with flavinoids.   Also a rich source of Essential Fatty Acids.

  Green tea: Calms visible and internal signs of inflammation.

  Pomegranate: Reinforces the skin’s structural fibers and boots sun protection.

  Other inflammation-reducing ingredients to look for in skincare products include:

  Arnica

  Licorice

  Aloe Vera

  Curcumin

  Chamomile,

  Lavender

  Panthenol,

  Allantoin

  Zinc

  Internal Support

  The following foods contain high levels of antioxidants and other nutrients and should form a large part of our daily diet

• Berries: Blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, goji juice all contain high levels of antioxidants, essential fatty acids and trace minerals.
• Grapes: Red grape skin contains high levels of resveratrol, an extremely potent antioxidant.
• Tomatoes: Contain beta carotene and lycopene, an enzyme that helps stimulate collagen production in the skin and also helps protect against cancer. Lycopene is more easily absorbed from cooked rather than fresh tomatoes.
• Avocadoes: Contain fibre, potassium, vitamin E, lutein and monounsaturated (good) fats.
• Broccoli: is one of the best vegetables to keep your body full of antioxidants.
• Spinach: Together with other dark green leafy vegetables, spinach is a potent source of the antioxidant lutein.
• Carrots: Together with other yellow-orange vegetables, carrots contain high levels of betacarotene, which is more easily absorbed by the body after cooking.
• Tea: Both black and green tea contain high concentrations of the theaflavin antioxidants.
• Fatty Fish: Sardines, salmon, ocean trout, etc all contain high levels of proteins and are full of Omega 3, the healthy fatty acids that help reduce ageing inflammation throughout the body.
  

1.Ridge JM, Siegle RJ, Zuckerman J. Use of •-hydroxy acid in therapy for "photoaged" skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 1990;23:932.

2.Vide DG, Bergfeld WF. Cosmetic use of alpha-hydroxy acids. Cleve Clin J Med 1997;64:327-9

3.Thibault PK, Wlodarczyk J, Wenck A. A double-blind randomized clinical trial on the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid formulation in the treatment of photoaging. Dermatol Surg 1998;24:573-7.

4.Lavker RM, Kaidbey K, Leyden JJ. Effects of topical ammonium lactate on cutaneous atrophy from a potent topical corticosteroid. J Am Acad Dermatol 1992;26:535-44.

5.Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, Sueki H, Telegan B, Johnson WC, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol 1996 Feb;34(2 Pt 1):187-95.

6. Genova, M et al, The Mitochondrial Production of Reactive Oxygen Species in Relation to Aging and Pathology, Ann. N.Y.Acad Sci, 1011: 86-100, 2004

7.Genova, M et al. Mitochonrdrial Production of Oxygen Radical Species and the Role of Coenyme Q as an Antioxidant, Exp Biol Med 228, 506-513, 2008

8. Esposti, M., The Interaction of Q Analogs, Particularly Idebenone with the Respiratory Complexes of Heart Mitochondria, Archives of Biochemistry and Biophysics, Vol 330, No 2,  June 15,  395-400, 1996 article No 0267